Laptop perched on the glass dining room table, second Nescafe in hand; I take this moment to sum up some four weeks in Zimbabwe and Southern Africa. Between time reflecting at the Bulawayo synagogue, dancing and working with inspirational staff and kids at the Center, and peeking over the rushing edge of Victoria Falls, a few descriptive phrases come to mind…this posting attempts a highlight and summary of this experience, thus far.
Radio Zimbabwe and Oliver “Tuku” Muthkudzi
Repetitive bouncing Afro-pop, mostly in languages I don’t understand, has permeated my experiences here. At the Center, Celine Dion and American hip-hop blare out on “repeat” alongside local music. A balance exists, with the song of church groups wafting through town on Sundays. Even better, numerous volunteers at the Center belong to Shalom Ad-nai, an acapella 7th Day Adventist choir, singing praise in effortless harmony. (I admit to joining in when possible)
No Bread, Just Circuses
Sadza porridge, made of corn (or “mealie”) meal, is the local staple. When available, sadza is accompanied by meat gravy, and eaten with the fingers. Lately, due to shortages, sadza and meat, and even bread can be difficult to get. Many people bake their own loaves at home, grow their own vegetable gardens, and carry on.
Tea – an event. Brewed, served in delicate china on saucers with tea spoons, often all wheeled in on a cart. "Tea" easily turns into pre-dinner drinks on the veranda. As the sun sets, the day cools, there is nothing like company and conversation and a cup of tea.
Survivor: Zimbabwe
Resilience is found across the board: Jewish, Christian, Black or White, Shona, Ndebele, Ex-pats (not too many) Young, Old. People here are friendly and open, and in survival mode. The South African Saying ‘ Make a Plan’ is ever relevant here – if the municipal water shuts off, bore halls are dug; when one runs out of petrol coupons, buy fuel across the border. It’s frustrating, fascinating, incredulous.
This baby Baobab grows in my front yard, planted by a neighbor nearly 17 years ago.
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